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Everything you need to know about hair science, diagnosis, and solutions. Used by our assessment wizard and chatbot.

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Category 01

Hair Types & Characteristics

Hair porosity is the hair's ability to absorb and retain moisture, determined by the structure of the hair cuticle.

Low Porosity

Tightly sealed cuticles. Resists moisture absorption but retains it well. Products: lightweight, protein-rich.

Medium Porosity

Balanced cuticle structure. Ideal state. Absorbs and retains moisture efficiently.

High Porosity

Raised or damaged cuticles. Absorbs moisture rapidly but loses it quickly. Constant dryness and frizz.

Diagnostic test: Float Test — place a clean strand in water. Floats = low, sinks slowly = medium, sinks immediately = high.

Density refers to how many hair strands per square inch of scalp—independent of porosity.

Low Density

Fewer strands. Hair appears thin or wispy. Requires volumizing products and protective styling.

Medium Density

Most common. Hair has visible weight and fullness without being heavy.

High Density

Many strands per square inch. Hair appears thick and full. Benefits from moisture-rich products.

Diagnostic test: Pull Test — hold a section between fingers. Barely feel it = low, significant resistance = high.

Curl patterns range from straight (1A) to coily (4C). Each requires specific care approaches.

2A–2C (Wavy) — Loose waves. Requires moisture and anti-frizz.

3A–3C (Curly) — Defined curls. Needs slip and hydration.

4A–4C (Coily) — Tight coils or zigzag. Requires deep moisture, protective styling.

Category 02

Scalp Conditions

Symptoms: Hair greasy within 24 hours, weighed down roots, visible shine.

Causes: Overactive sebaceous glands, frequent washing, hormonal fluctuations, microbiome imbalance.

Treatment: pH-balanced clarifying shampoo (1–2% salicylic acid), zinc PCA, niacinamide. Reduce washing frequency to 3–4× weekly. Avoid silicones.

Symptoms: Itching, flaking, tightness, visible dryness.

Causes: Low sebum production, harsh products, frequent heat styling, environmental factors, age-related changes.

Treatment: Hydrating shampoo with glycerin and ceramides. Weekly moisture mask. Avoid hot water. Scalp oil massage. Weekly leave-in treatments.

Difference: Dandruff = dry, white flakes. Seborrheic dermatitis = oily, yellow flakes, inflammation.

Cause: Overgrowth of Malassezia fungus due to microbiome imbalance.

Treatment: Zinc pyrithione or salicylic acid shampoos. Prebiotic scalp tonics. Tea tree oil (diluted). Address microbiome with pH-balanced products. Reduce wash frequency.

Symptoms: Itching, burning, redness, reactive to products.

Causes: Compromised scalp barrier, product sensitivities, allergies, contact dermatitis.

Treatment: Fragrance-free, hypoallergenic products. Sulfate-free shampoo. Avoid strong actives initially. Rosehip oil. Gentle scalp massage. Identify trigger products via elimination diet.

Category 03

Hair Concerns

Normal Shedding: 50–100 hairs daily is normal (telogen phase).

Androgenic Alopecia (AGA): Genetic, DHT-driven miniaturization. 50% of men and 30% of women. Progressive thinning, receding hairline (men), vertex thinning (women).

Telogen Effluvium: Stress-induced. Sudden shedding 2–3 months after stressor. Usually resolves within 6–12 months.

Treatments: Minoxidil (topical, FDA-approved), caffeine + rosemary (DHT-blocking), copper peptides, scalp massage, stress management, biotin, iron/zinc supplementation.

Causes: Heat styling, chemical processing, rough handling, UV exposure, chlorine, mechanical stress from brushing.

Signs: Split ends, mid-shaft breakage, frizz, loss of shine, reduced elasticity.

Solutions: Bond-building treatments (maleic acid), keratin proteins, ceramides, deep conditioning, heat protectant, wide-tooth comb, minimize heat styling, protective styling (braids, buns).

Root Cause: Open cuticles allowing moisture escape. High porosity, damage, or humidity exposure.

Solutions: Cuticle-sealing oils (argan, coconut), leave-in conditioners, anti-frizz serums, hydrating masks, humidity-control products (silicones/silicone alternatives), ionic hair dryers, microfiber towels instead of terry cloth.

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